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My Best Books of 2011

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So, I read 24 books in 2011. These were my favourites of the bunch:

1. Too Much Happiness – Alice Munro

2. Zombies vs Unicorns – Justine Larbalestier & Holly Black, eds. (Yes, I did just include that, haters)

3. Perfume – Patrick Suskind

4. Finding George Orwell in Burma – Emma Larkin

5. The Enchantress of Florence – Salman Rushdie

6. The Djinn in the Nightingale’s Eye – A.S. Byatt

7. The Passion – Jeanette Winterson

8. A Visit From the Goon Squad – Jennifer Egan

Posted by DenaAllen 09:21 Archived in Thailand Tagged books Comments (0)

China. Wow.

Some highlights (and a couple lowlights) from my intro to the People’s Republic

rain 16 °C

September 9, 2011 -- 9:10 pm

1) I have decided that Chinese babies/toddlers might be the cutest children in the world. Seriously! They are just OBSCENELY cute! I think it's the chubby cheeks. Photographic evidence below.

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2) Met two of the coolest old dudes who basically volunteer (they get paid a tiny stipend) to run the Plan child centre in their community. They were soooooo obviously passionate about the work and really felt it was important for the community. They were so excited talking to me and kept shouting over one another, so my colleague didn't know who to translate for, it was great. Mr Yao and Mr Yao, no relation. They were cool as beans. Photographic evidence below.

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3) I peed in what was, hands down, the NASTIEST toilet I have ever used in my life! And that's saying something, I've seen some pretty rancid loos on a number of continents. This one was a waterless concrete hole and was quite literally a festering, roiling mass of shit, piss and half-inch-long white maggots. GROSS! Photographic evidence below.

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4) I ate some of the best noodles ever. They were home-made, exquisitely chewy, and came in this spicy thick brown sauce. The resto owners were delightful, and quite pleased to have a foreigner in their small-town establishment. They quite seriously assured me when taking our order that their restaurant didn't have rats. That is good to know. Below is a photo of their mah jong table.

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5) There are all kinds of counterfeit 100 yuan notes in circulation. Now, I kinda expect a fake note from a dodgy taxi driver or a shady shop owner, but a legitimate bank ATM?? Ouch.

6) Chinese babies pee on the floor!! They have pants made expressly for it! There's a big hole in the crotch of their pants, and they wear no underwear or diapers. Their moms or dads just hold them up and they wee right on the floor wherever they happen to be. Then every now and then someone gets a mop and wipes the floor down. I counted, and tried to avoid (with about 95% success), five puddles while I was there. My colleague says they wear diapers at night. What happens when they need to poo? (They still win the cutest babies in the world award, floor-weeing or no.)

7) When driving out to the village we passed apple orchard after corn field after apple orchard on repeat. Later in the day, this middle-aged man - without saying a word - took my bag from me, opened the zipper, and stuffed it full with as many apples as it could hold. He then just laughed and handed it back to me. Nicest. People. Ever.

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Posted by DenaAllen 15.09.2011 07:47 Archived in China Tagged kidschinalivingabroadtoilets Comments (0)

Living & dying as an imperial consort

The Emperor will need female companionship in the afterlife

sunny 26 °C

They buried the concubines in pits, after the women had hung themselves from silk ropes or swallowed poison. This is what my guide to the Ming Tombs in China, John, informs me as we both stare down at the metal grate covering one of the pits in question.

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Upon death and his entry to the afterlife, the Emperor would need female companionship. So he chose which concubines were to be executed by palace eunuchs or to commit suicide, and they were buried on the outskirts of the tombs.

“Sometimes they were burnt, and very rarely they were buried alive in a standing position, so they could greet the Emperor in the afterlife.”

The latter two practices were discontinued in the advancing years of the Ming dynasty after being deemed uncivilized.

The Imperial Garden was the site of concubine try-outs. Concubines would audition for entry into the Emperor’s select inner harem. Some Emperors had thousands of concubines, so making it into the elite inner circle was no small feat. Those who didn’t make the cut were given as presents to foreign dignitaries, nobles, or those the Emperor was pleased with.

Staring at those burial pits, wind through cypress needles, I shudder, snap a photo, and walk on.

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Posted by DenaAllen 05.09.2011 06:08 Archived in China Tagged culturecitychinaforbiddenliving_abroad Comments (0)

Budget accommodation in China

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

Sense-drunk & sweating

Bali's insistent indulgence

sunny 31 °C

November 25, 2010 – 8:22 AM Ubud, Bali


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There is a woman whose job it is to pick the flowers. The flowers used to adorn every nook and corner of the villa I’m staying at in Nyu Kuning village on the outskirts of Ubud, Bali. She has a long stick with a forked end, and a plastic bag half full of blooms looped over her arm. She quietly prowls this garden that makes words like verdant and lush seem understated. I have grown gills and cannot be convinced to leave the pool. Bending down, she shows me her collection and asks if I’d like one. “For your hair,” she says, offering me a pink frangipani.

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The flowers are also used as offerings. Bundled with fruit and incense and intriguing little flourishes like a mini-Ritz cracker or a plastic-wrapped candy. Balinese people are intensely devout and small shrines and offerings are everywhere – outside family dwellings, shops, dotted around guesthouses, on sidewalks, tucked into the corners of green spaces – incense wafting and the little banana leaf packages being raided by birds.
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“The ephemeral arts”. I am in love with this phrase. I found it on an art gallery wall used to describe the offerings Balinese women are responsible for making on behalf of the family throughout the day. Simple or elaborate, these spirit gifts must be constructed. The forces of good and evil must be kept in balance. Words must be spoken.

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Magik. Incense. That otherworldly gamelan music in your ears. Flowers. The shining filaments of butterfly cocoons dripping off palm leaves. Water running over rocks. Snakes red and brown and small. The iridescent exoskeletons of beetles. People moving slow and smiling quick. Fat, glossy lizards. A lushness that teeters on the obscene.

Cruising around rice fields on the back of a motorbike. Koman and I are on a mission to find the perfect woodcarving of Rama and Sita for me to take home to Bangkok. We’ve stopped for a break at a roadside eatery – I’m sticking to the red plastic chair and scarfing down some of the best roast chicken on record.
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Art is ubiquitous. Paintings, carvings, music, dancing, ceramics, silverwork…galleries and museums both in your face and hidden away. Every café and guesthouse and shop features some artistic offering for either view or sale. Walking into the surreal and sensual Blanco Renaissance Museum, I’m presented with an oversweet welcome drink and a flower “For your hair”, the lady who takes my ticket informs me with a slow smile. Large tropical birds – both tame and wild – muttering and screeching, a giant stone dragon slithers down the imposing entrance steps, there’s opera in my ears, and a stained glass dome filtering coloured light downwards to glance off the already shockingly bright walls and canvasses.
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The Blanco museum is bonkers and beautiful. Ornamental, strange, sexy. Rococo doesn’t even begin to cover it. Carved gilt frames and flashing black eyes and full breasts. Fruit and glitter and the sound of insects. Strange words strung together. Dizzying. Hot. Me, sense-drunk and sweating. Blanco, and Bali, softly but firmly whisper to me that more is more. As if I needed convincing.
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Posted by DenaAllen 03.12.2010 22:14 Archived in Indonesia Tagged artbaliindonesiacultureliving_abroad Comments (1)

Supporting flood survivors in Pakistan

Humbled on the Karachi-Hyderbad highway

semi-overcast 35 °C

Islamabad, Pakistan - September 3, 2010

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How do you describe the first time you see a flood relief camp? How do you explain the sheer numbers of people and the enormous scale of what is needed? How do you also describe the unexpected kindnesses, the small smiles, the courage and the tenacity of people for whom daily existence has become a struggle but who push on and help themselves, their families and their communities in any way they can? Truly, it is a humbling experience.

I have come with my colleagues from Islamabad to support Plan's staff assisting flood survivors on the ground in the Thatta district of Sindh province in Pakistan. 
In Thatta district, almost 1,300 square kilometers of land have been flooded in recent days -- displacing more than half a million people. It is estimated that more than 400,000 people have moved here to this area near Thatta town, and along the Karachi-Hyderabad highway.
You see these people everywhere.

Crouching on the roadsides, constructing makeshift shelters out of branches and plastic sheeting and cloth or anything else they can find. These hastily constructed shelters remind me of nests, and do very little to keep the sun off people and the ever-pervasive dust out.

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Clean drinking water is, of course, scarce, there are no proper facilities for people to relieve themselves, and you can see mothers trying to clean themselves, their children and their family's clothes in dirty ditch water with garbage floating in it. Most of those fleeing the floods have been unable to get into the limited number of relief camps set up by the Pakistani government and non-governmental organizations like Plan International. I have lived and worked in many parts of the developing world. I have provided disaster relief in Canada. But I have never seen anything like these hundreds of thousands of people displaced and struggling in southern Pakistan.

A group of children quickly crowd around me as we enter the relief camp that Plan has set up with its local partner, Laar Humanitarian Development Programme. They giggle and pull at my newly purchased shalwaar kameez, glad to have visitors and some spectacle to break up the monotony of life in the camps. 



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The conditions in the camps are cramped, with families side-by-side, tarpaulins and cloth tent coverings flapping in the wind. Wooden poles and ropes hold up makeshift dwellings; the smoke from cooking fires and dust are everywhere. I press one of my colleagues into translation duty and crouch with the children, asking them how long they have been here and how they are feeling.


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"I don't want to be here, in this place," says 10-year-old Zaafira*, whose family fled from the floods in a donkey cart four days ago. "I want to go home, and to go back to school. It's boring and dirty here." 



What can I say to her? It may take weeks, even months, for the flood waters to recede and for her to be able to return to her home. Zaafira tells me her family has no land, that her father supports them as an agricultural day labourer. With huge swaths of farmland now under water, and water tables saturated in many areas, who knows if her father will have a job to go home to?



We do what we can for Zaafira and her friends and their families. It isn't much, but it is welcome.
"Honestly, I thank God we are in this camp," says Zaafira's father Hanif. "If we had to be out there, on the road or in the fields, with no food or water or anything, I just don't know how we'd survive." 



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My headscarf has slipped down in the heat. I pull it up over my hair and return to the highway.

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*Names in this post have been changed for privacy reasons

Posted by DenaAllen 08.10.2010 20:16 Archived in Pakistan Tagged livingfloodpakistanabroadhumanitariandisasteremergencyngo Comments (5)

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